Sunday, 24th to Friday 29th May 2020
So with a staggered start in the morning we leave the Clare park. We are heading for Morgan via Burra but just a little stop on the way out. It was a stagger off the start line with Garry and Jen leaving first as they had to make a stop in town to pick up a table. We had been there at the choosing of the table and Anne had spotted a stylish felt hat in an Akubra style in the same shop. She decided she did not ‘need’ it until we were driving out of town. Then … Have you ever tried to park a 4WD with a twenty foot van in the main street of a country town? Anne got hat number two because Jen had chosen the same hat when they picked up the table. OK. So they both have good taste.
We finally take off in a cloud of frost and head to Burra. Pull in the reins at the schmicky Gaslight cafe for coffee and a ‘Tiddy Oggi’. That is a Cornish pasty with a happy ending. That is to say it was what Cornish wives cooked the miner (not minor) husbands for lunch. Not able to wash their hands in the mine, the pasty had a thick roll of pastry on the top which was in fact a disposable handle. That is also the status quo with a Cornish pasty except the difference between the two is, Husband starts one end and eats the pasty except, the pasty runs out and stage two takes over with an apple pie dessert end in it. How very clever for a hundred year old problem solving exercise.
The Gaslight Cafe
We walk around town and it becomes obvious that: A. it is a good town full of history and B: we sure as hell didn’t do it justice the week or two earlier that we passed through it.
Heading back to the van, I spot the back of a head of a man with a ‘pie hat’ on. In fact it is the following (googled): “Traditional Afghan Hat. Pakol is a Khowar Chitrali word and is derived from the word Khoi which means hat in Khowar. Another Khowar name for the hat is Khapol. … The woolen cap has been the staple headgear of the Chitrali people for centuries.”
The back of the head belonged to Grant Lock who was doing what we were with his wife Janna. He told me the correct name of the hat but I forget which of the two it was. Turns out They spent twenty four years in Afghanistan and Pakistan. He wrote two books, Shoot Me First and I’d Rather Be Blind. Ominous titles but I wouldn’t mind betting they would be good reads.
I told Grant I had started a book on our eighteen years in East Timor and he gave me a few pointers. A nice couple. If you are curious and/or interested, go to: www.shootmefirst.com or email: grantlock@shootmefirst.com Chase them up and have a read.
N.B. I only started the conversation because I had been sent a ‘pie hat’ years ago from Afghanistan and imagined one day I could wear it as a novelty. However, since all the middle east trouble where a lot of the ‘trouble makers’ had Pie Hats on, I decided this would be a bad idea. However, after twenty four years in the thick of it, Grant was not so apprehensive as me. Damn! Didn’t get his autograph.
The others come looking for we two, truant travellers. (try saying that after a few drinks) Time to move on.
Next stop the fruit bin to dump any of the forty (?) fruits listed. The others do so and move of but we stay to squeeze all lemons and put the juice in the freezer. By the time we get to Morgan, the others have stopped at the bakery and are half way through their pies. We can skip the pies as we are still sitting on the Tiddy Oggi.
MORGAN
Morgan caravan park right on the water and next to the Ferry landing. A great spot and indeed we do enjoy some rays of sun not seen for some time. We ‘chummy up’ with adjoining travellers.
Again, the Ken and Liz van is the central collecting spot, especially since Ken not only put his awning out but also put up half the annex. Very cosy at night. A good couple of days soaking up the ambience, brisk walks to the ablution blocks, Ken did another roast (pork) pleasant chats peppered with laughter and liquid refreshments.
There was a walk to the pub for a takeaway beer slab and we also visited a most unique general store. It is built on a slope so the inside is terraced with ramps between. We considered this characteristic and I personally think, if I has a skate board, (and could ride it) starting at the top, I calculate I would be doing around thirty five kph before I rocketed out the front door into the passing traffic of trucks, cars, humans, dogs, cats or kangaroos as well as stationary objects like rocks and power poles. Nope. Not prepared to test it.
From the top looking down.
From the bottom looking up.
Nearing the end of the day, I finally get around to doing what I have meant to do the whole time. Get out the drone. Yes. I completely missed the Flinders Ranges and Clare. Twat. Still, better late than never.
That night we ate like kings and finished the Whiskey. Remember with an ‘e’ means Irish. That was the Tullamore D.E.W. (Daniel E Williams. Manager and later owner)
PARTING COMPANY
In the morning, after nearly two weeks together, Garry and Jen again do a staggered start only this time back to Adelaide, Ken and Liz take to the road waiting for the NT border to open and we plan to head back towards Loxton to take our ex hosts during the close down, Rick and Diane out to dinner, if we can find anywhere open. We did have one hope but that opening has been delayed another week. So for now we head towards Loxton, looking for something open where they can drive to and join us there. In the mean time, we delayed out departure from Morgan for a walk around and soaking of Morgan society. (There’s that word ‘soak’ again. We do a lot of soaking)
‘Roo Poo’
Lots of interesting nooks and info when you slow down enough to look.
Found an Op Shop open and bought a jar of homemade apricot jam and a TwoUp set. That is the ‘kip’ and two genuine pennies. However, before I bought the TwoUp, I asked what should NOW be asked by most of us Australians, ‘Was it made in Australia?’ I kid you not, the lady got on the phone and asked the local guy who marketed them. She said ‘OK’ to him and hung up. She then turned to me and said, ‘Yep. He made it in his shed.’ Good enough.
The one I bought.
Googled instructions.
CADELL
Now a short visit to Cadell. Birth place of Anne’s dear old mum. (with a firey disposition when warranted.)
A quiet town now. Apparently, most of the citrus industry has finished due to international/foreign imports. We are told by a local, a packing plant closed down. Most of the town worked there. HERE is where you can REALLY see, if only we didn’t look to save twenty cents and instead BUY AUSTRALIAN, many of our countries problems would be fixed.
We went to the Cadell Club in the hope of a lunch to support them. It is only open two nights a week and now the Chinese Covid-19 has knocked that on the head. Right on the river, it is a good little town, but with little income. Damn.
RAMCO
We drove towards Waikerie aiming for Holder Bend free camp, but Anne spotted another entry on Wikicamps. Ramco Wetland. A top spot for free camping. A nice grassed area with shelters and two very good echo toilets.
The grass is out of bounds but the dirt and scrub area adjacent are all free camp. We arrive and set up. Set up? Like most of our free camping, we pull up at a level-ish spot, lock the car, make sure any grey water is going to head in the right direction. That is as a water source for the scrub and nowhere near the river.
Five minutes from Waikerie, TV reception, a toilet a minute walk away, view of the river, no park fees, not using any diesel except the heater and true serenity. (the magic word) Three of us spread out over a hundred metres. Not exactly shoulder to shoulder. Great spot. We will stay for a few days.
What made this hole above? about a foot high, in the old language.
Some great cloud on water reflections. Not ‘glass’ but close.
Friday Morning. FOGGY for a while then lovely and sunny.
Moving on. Off to Barmera via Waikerie to meet more friends for the weekend.
However, what about a bit of a laugh first….
Cheers.